I can't actually describe properly what it has been like to be here. It is something I looked forward to for my entire time at SAMS and I arrived early, at the end of June straight into over two months of daylight with red phalaropes (Phalaropus fulicarius) with the tiniest chicks you've ever seen and the male common eider (Somateria mollisima) still present at the nesting sites. It was the Arctic spring.

Since I was here early, I should probably have posted earlier. I had so much to share, about the plants and the animals and how they interact and what they eat, about the beautiful Hekla Hoeck structures, the moraines and the dirt cones on Larsbreen. The problem is that I have no words that have the ability to describe it accurately. I have always loved Scotland for it's wildness. When you go a little further north you can still walk for a week without seeing another human being. Spitsbergen takes it one step further. You could walk for months without encountering people and we aren't the top of the food chain either, you have to be on your toes all the time (or at least someone in your group does). Then there's the history, from discovery to whaling and trapping to mining to science and tourism, there are a thousand interesting things to tell. So deciding where to begin has been difficult.

 The course so far has been amazing, I have been on three field trips as part of my two geology courses (quaternary and marine geology) and our field work in both courses is part of a larger body of research done in these regions. At the moment we're processing sediments in the laboratory from the cores we took during our marine geology cruise. We'll be looking at sediment grain size and foraminiferal assemblages. Together with the proxies we gathered on the boat (lithological log, magnetic susceptibility and shear strength) this should give us some ideas about the history of the locations we took the cores from.

In short: there's ice caves and glaciers and snowscooter trips and hikes and nordic skiing and downhill skiing and dog mushing and ......

Applications are open for spring semester. I think anyone who applies will have a great time!

Allan- Rock and Ice

"Stone after stone. I am now seeing stones in my sleep and when I am awake. They are going to get on my nerves; I can feel it. This stony land, the total gigantic barrenness, is going to haunt me as a bad dream."

Christiane Ritter (1897-2000)

Clearly this person was no geologist. Every stone that litters this landscape has its own story of an unseen past, from the fossilized leaf on a scree slope to the glacially striated boulders marking the presence of these land moulding machines of nature that I have not only seen on a daily basis but also walked on and slept next to.

I chose to study the quaternary history of Svalbard aswell as Arctic marine geology. So far this has allowed me to witness and begin to understand the processes that have occurred in order to have formed this land. The quaternary period being characterised by ice covering the landscape and causing it to undergo some unknown metamorphosis, this ice at times also melted causing the sea to rise forming new beaches and allowed the land itself too actually  grow, to rise out from the immense pressure of the ice that had once crushed it. Even today this is happening, glaciers in fact cover more than half of the land mass here and as a result we can only see as much as nature has allowed us to. It is for this reason that I would not describe this place as "gigantic barrenness” , gigantic yes but not barren, it is full from the small settlements and the variety of people within them to the glaciers and creatures that live and change from season to season. This place has a raw, naked beauty about it that only a land just being formed can possess. The same beauty I can see Scotland having around 10,000 years ago when the glaciers of the younger dryas would have uncovered what we can see now. 

I have not long returned from two field excursions that have kept me on my toes for the past two weeks. The first excursion involved camping and sleeping in a cabin at the head of Billefjordan where the thunder like cracks of the calving glacier Nordenskioldbreen could be heard throughout the day. Although there was a cabin it could not fit us all, therefore some slept in tents; a thin piece of nylon separating you from the Arctic tundra. This introduced us to a new element of camping in Svalbard, the polar bear watch. For an hour a night you and a partner, a husky, rifle and flare gun would keep a lookout over the camp and surrounding area for this great white bear that roams the land. Despite the cold winds that blew with strength from the surrounding glacier the hour of watch duty was never laborious, the excitement of this surreal setting that you were placed in kept you entertained.

After a one day turn around in Longyearbyen a small 16 man plane was boarded to take us to the research community of Ny- Ålesund.  Every day was a new adventure that began with donning a survival suit and getting aboard the polar circles; boats that had a large outboard motor that allowed for fast transport on the Arctic waters. Our first journey to Leinstranda involved a rather tense crossing with the polar circles. It was commented that the amplitude of the waves were surprisingly high for their relatively short period. What started as an exciting adventure soon became a rather enduring feat but an adventure nonetheless. Storming the beaches, boots on, rifles half loaded and spades at the ready the geologists took the beaches of Leinstranda.  Each day was like this, with a new objective and location I felt truly privileged to be able to participate in these excursions and with the goal to obtain data that we would use for term projects. This was the beginning of our research, our science.

 

Our last day in the field began with negotiating a beach landing that had many icebergs blockading the shore. After we had managed to jump off and prepare for the walk ahead we were told once again of this great white bear. A beast that disappears into its snowy landscape. A beast that walks at our running speed. The way that it is spoken about, either as drunken tales from shady bearded men in the local bar or as tales of warning from supervisors. They are the reason we consider a rifle as common as hiking boots when going for a trek. This day in the field, one had been spotted in the area and we were warned. Taking the precautions we stuck to high ground giving us the layout of the land. We began doing our work, gathering data. All under the protection of one professor that constantly scouted the land with the use of his binoculars. Then whistling was heard, the professor getting the attention of our group to climb the moraine. No words were exchanged. We knew. One had been spotted. On the opposite island, some distance away white figures were seen, at this distance they were only blurs in my eyes. Adrenaline running I dare not close my eyes even with the cold arctic wind causing tears to run down my face as I fixed my eyes on the island to catch a better glimpse of this creature that struck me more as myth. In the end only a few saw it. No pictures were taken. This great white snow bear has remained in my view as the Bigfoot of the Arctic tundra.

With my experience so far of this vast land which differs in every single fibre of its existence to that of the world I came from I know this is something I will not consider a “bad dream”. I will consider these moments to be something that one day I may question if they actually occurred as if some part of a lucid dream.

I know wait for my next excursion, a 6 day cruise around Svalbard studying marine geology. Maybe then I will see this beast of legend. 

Hello everyone. It's Ribanna! Just a wee update as Luci has promised you guys to hear from me as well :) We've had a fantastic and super-exciting field trip the last week. Unlike Luci, however, I was in the other group doing some hydrological investigations of a lake (Kongressvannet) and its catchment area. We took some pictures and the exact GPS position to measure the lake level which is apparently changing in great extents every year having effects on the outflow which occurs partially underground.

                            Fig 1: Kongressvannet and me in my group trying to find the best spot

Measuring the outflow of a lake is hydrologically done by simply stirring 1kg of salt into the running water and measuring the conductivity at another point several meters further down. For this reason, we've been carrying fancy wading trousers all the way to the lake which was quite helpful anyways because we had to cross quite a lot of rivers that were deeper than expected.

                                                   Fig 2: Wading in the water

So far so good, for our way back, we've made kind of a silly decision which was to hike on top of a moraine. Hiking is fun, glaciers are wonderful, climbing is always exciting. But when you're hiking on a moraine you have a 50/50 chance of solid ground or loose stones. And you can't assess your next step which means you either get hurt quite a lot or you slow down your pace to a minimum, eyes down, arms out for balance and then it takes you ages to get back. After our time in Svalbard, we will deffo have legs of steel and an incredible sense of balance. That's for sure!

We arrived back at the radio station at 8.30pm and were starving. However, the group Luci was in, was still out and the last time we had radio contact, they estimated not to be back before 10pm. Eventually, they arrived back at 10.30pm and dinner wasn't served one minute earlier.

The next day, we decided to find the walrusses as Luci already told you guys. I won't add more photos of those massive guys, but I will try to upload a video right here:

We got really close, I would have loved to wobble their wobbly bodies, but I reckon they would not have liked it.


After this highlight, a group of 10 people (including myself) splitted up to investigate a glacier. So again, we were climbing massive moraines, found a couple of ice caves and we could hear rocks and ice falling off into the ridges and crevasses all around us. It was a bit scary to be honest, but as the experienced people were totally relaxed, I reckoned it should be alright!

                                          Figure 3 and 4: Debris covered glacier to be explored!


The way back from the field trip was properly wet! It was raining and quite windy and the Polar Circle boats have a good speed so that the spray felt like hail and there wasn't much to cover our faces so that Luci and I ended up with some properly skin-damaged cheeks. However, jumping over the waves is so much fun, I'd love to do it more often!

Last friday we had the first snow covering the mountians around Longyearbyen! How exciting! I can't wait for the winter. The nights are getting darker by now, but still, we do not have an official night...well, 2 days to go! Yesterday, we hiked up Larsbreen, a glacier right behind our barracks, and built giant ice lady that we called "Helga". Check her out, she will be protecting our barracks from polar bears from now on!

                                          Figure 5: Helga, the giant polar bear guard and her team!

                                                               Figure 6: A deeeeeeep crevasse

After that we hiked up Trollsteinen (850m) to get a stunning view which was a bit limited by reeeeaally big and dense clouds. Actually we couldn't see anything, but it was worth getting up 850m for a peanut butter jelly sandwich and a nice sip of water imagining mountains, valleys, glaciers and polar bears around us.

                                                  

                                         Figure 7: Stunning view just below the clouds!

                                         Figure 8: Now it's getting foggy!

That's me for now! Enjoy the week and keep checking our blog :)

Hello - Luci here!

Yesterday I just got back from my Arctic Tech - Hydrology and Climate change field trip, just thought i would fill you in as to what i have been up too....

So the group headed out on Monday the 2nd first we had a bit of a safety briefing about how we were getting there and protocol when there - i.e take a gun everywhere because essentially unlike Longyearbyen it is bear land! We were heading to Kapp Linne to the old Isfjord radio station, figure 1 (now 'done up' base camp - very smart and comfy).

Figure 1 - Map of area with Isford radio station noted. (Norwegian Polar institute, 2013)

We took 2 boats down for the group, in out delightful prison wear, figure 2, and the trip took nearly two hours from Longyearbyen which wasn't to bad as the sea was very calm even though fairly cloudy and misty, Figure 3. On the way down we saw loads of Puffins and other sea birds, no whales yet though :(

Figure 2 - The team in prison wear survival suits.

Figure 3 - Misty sea birds.

On the monday we got there we got briefed on our groups and what each group would be doing the next day - I got put in one of the two glacier groups (WHOOOO) who where going all the way to the Linne Glacier. My group were to note its GPS locations on its front, make photographs for record (to be compiled with previous made). The other group were measuring set stakes on the glacier to see the melt and position change (which we ended up helping a little bit any way)

For the rest of the day we went for a little hike from the radio station and tested some of our equipment - a current meter - not at all like the ADCPs previously used in the marine environment but a hand held device with a blade which would rotate and the number of rotations per minute could be used to calculate the current of a river! another thing we were looking for was the discharge which was done by using a mass of salt upstream and measuring down stream how long it takes to register the change in conductivity and how long it takes to revert back to its original stable level. - these were to be used in the other groups taking measurements in the lakes and streams (which Ribanna has more on)

After this we familiarised ourselves with the GPS systems, and radios we were using during the next day and then got spoiled with a really good risotto and fish - the food was amazing compared to the tubed food we have been eating in Longyearbyen - and a cheeky glass of wine too!!!

Figure 4 - Yummy Breakfast

The next day (03/09/2013) we were up early and had breakfast, fig 4, at 0730 (again really really yummy) and made our pack lunch for the day. 

As a group we all walked to a 'base camp', a little cabin in the middle of the valley, from where we could all head to our individual locations. The route to base camp was approx 10km and was relatively flat, unlike the hiking around Longyearbyen, minor a few moraines. At the base camp we stopped for a quick refuel and hot drink, figure 5.

Figure 5 - Group snacking at the cabin

From there we began to split up and i and the two Glacier groups, figure 6, along with Jessica (who worked within UNIS logistics) and Iben (a lady who also works in UNIS but in the Ed department) set off with the glacier in our sights... but still a fair distance, figure 7.

Figure 6 - The Glacier team

Figure 7 - Linnebreen Glacier.

Once at the glacier, which was quite a hike in itself - as the moraine rubble was difficult for footing we set to work. My team - Ragnahild (rags) and øla - both Norwegians located the area where previous photos had been captured and ourselves made one, fig 8, and noted the GPS coordinates and then moved to the glacier front and noted its GPS coordinates.

Figure 8 - Glacier record photo.

Fig 9 - Climbing up Linnebreen

Figure 10 - Stake measurements

 The Glacier itself was pretty amazing, and some of the rock formations were incredible!! the varied composition stripes could bee seen miles away and up close it was even more spectacular! Once we had finished our tasks we put on our crampons (getting a very wet butt as i stupidly left my water proofs in my bag and then it was too late) and made our way to the other group to help with the stakes, fig 9-12. In total we probably spent around 2 hours just working on the glacier and it was FANTASTIC!!

Figure 11 - not a bad view down the glacier either

Figure 12 - more steak measurements

On the way back we decided rather than return via the same route we could do a round robin of roughly the same (ish) distance and perhaps see some Walruses on the coast! By the time we were off the glacier and its moraine it was probably about 1700 ... we still had around 20km to go... IT WAS A LONG DAY!!!

In total we did 39.8km (24.7 miles) and were out until 2230 with 13.5 hours out in the field (a lot of which was hiking)... it was an amazing day but the last 6-8km was a tad on the painful side - my heels were pretty blistered due to my boots, whilst not new not broken in for that longer day just yet!! The last part was also pretty flat and boggy - and then we could see the radio station and would power walk for another 45 minutes ... and it would still be no closer!!! every one was a tad tired and not even bothered about even looking for the Walruses,  figure 13, at this point it started raining :(

Figure 13 -  The rare short rest stops (everyone began to cease up) you just sat where you were standing

It was a changeling but amazing day but we made it back for a really good, delayed, meal of yummy rare cooked beef - and then straight to bed with throbbing feet!

The next day Breakfast was at 0800 and we planned to go a try and find the Walruses then after some people would try and go to another of the closer Glaciers. The walk to the walruses was supposed to be around 16km as a round route - ok on a normal day ... not so great with large blisters and saw muscles already BUT who is going to pass that opportunity up!!! So on went my big girls pants and i tried to patch my ankles enough (which is either going to help or shift and hurt like hell) but i was going!!!

The walk there was slow but ok, i tied my boots pretty tight to reduce shifting and it was on the coast so pretty flat (a god send)!
IT WAS SOOOO WORTH IT - we were able to get within 3 or 4 meters of these animals and they are HUGE but soo impressive! Thus i will now bombard you with a lot (more) of photos:

Figure 14 - Ribanna trying really hard to stare directly into the sun to get an good picture!!!

Figure 15 - the 2 humongous beasts just chilling!

Figure 16 - Sir one tusk posing graciously for us!!

Figure 17 - Playing in the sea!

Figure 18 - Curious of us and bravely checking the group out!

The way home was horrible but i carried the rifle so could walk or hobble pretty slow - my feet cramped cos my boots were so tight but i couldn't loosen them as the rubbing was bad- i made it myself and Jessica's feet both in a pretty sore state but the rainbow and sight of an arctic fox at the end helped distract us, but i didn't want to put those boots on in a while!

Again we have some very tasty food and desert and all chilled out at the radio station for a while with some people playing guitar others reading and just enjoying life on the whole! We had a bit of a lecture that evening going through some calculations, information and preparing for our departure on the thursday!

Thursday's weather sucked as we got on the boats to leave the comfort of the warm station with amazing food... the wind was up a bit and it was raining as we put our prison suits back on! All the way back we were pretty heavily hammered by cold arctic sea spray (in the face) it sounds horrible but was actually quite fun!! i attempted a cup of hot tea most of which my survival suit took but it was entertaining!! Only at one point did the spray feel like fast flying hail not so fun) but on the whole it was a entertaining end to our trip!!!

We arrived back at UNIS travel worn and tired at 1230 on Thursday with 4 of us from the technology group to start our Arctic Marine Geology course at 1315 that afternoon - so after washing all the gear and getting a quick cuppa we continued lectures until 1700. We go the low down on our course and had our first guest lecture from Cambridge university - Julian Dowdeswell who is brilliant and has evidently been everywhere and has a lot of knowledge! Even when knackered it was really interesting - we were also set our first task of reading one of his given paper (most of which he is an author)s in pairs and preparing a presentation together to summaries the paper for Saturday (yes we have lectures on Saturday!!!!) plus we have had lectures from 0915 this morning until around 1600 and then spent the afternoon reading and putting together this paper summary!!! So its now just gone midnight on friday night and most of the evening i have been making a power point and reading the paper on 'Assemblages of submarine landforms produced by tidewater glaciers' all of which is actually really interesting - but i am looking forward to a lovely sleep day on Sunday!!!

For now that's all i have got, apologies if there is sloppy spelling - I am a tad sleepy! Hoping all is well at SAMS and the new students are settling in (maybe a tad early yet??). I think you will hear from Ribannas perspective shortly (with less sore feet) and also Allan and Esty will fill you in in what they have been up to too!!

Luci xxx

Arival at 78° North....

Weeks of running into summer-equipped outdoor stores looking for Arctic-suitable equipment, scrounging the internet for discounts, the discovery of merino wool and anticipation are over: WE HAVE ARRIVED!

After 22 hours of travelling through Europe with a lot of clothes on our backs (not all would fit in the cases), we arrived at midnight. In the daylight! Groggery and travel-worn, we realised that we both (Ribanna and Luci) forgot either what barrack or what room either of us had to go to. Well, after a bit of searching and help, we finally made it to our rooms at 1.40 in the morning (and still daylight!).

On the first day, we met up with Allan, who arrived one day earlier, so that he could show us around the one road which is Longyearbyen.
We explored the supermarket which took us ages to work out the prices in NOK only to wish we hadn't worked them out: It is sooooo expensive! But the gin is cheap and so is all the other spirits! After a while, we concluded a diet of crispy bread with peanut butter for breakfast and lunch and pasta with tomato sauce for dinner. Every day! Yummi! (?) or ANYTHING in a tube:

However, even though it is expensive, so far it's been amaaaaaaaaaazing, awesome and adventurous (the 'a' is for Arctic): We have seen reindeer, ptarmigans and polar foxes (some skinned) and polar bears (if you count the taxidermy ones)

, climbed the highest peaks around Longyearbyen, and completed all of our survival training.

Survival Training: 
To survive the boat trips and field excursions plus any recreational outdoor adventures, we learned how to react in a scenario when a polar bear becomes a threat: Do NOT shoot in its butt because how can you explain to the governor it was after you?! how to use a flare gun (either the emergency red one or the bangy flare), use your voice to scare it off or, eventually, use the rifle in a threatening situation.
Also, we jumped in the Arctic Sea in fancy orange survival suits and performed water aerobics. Good fun!
We also absolved a basic first aid course and saved Little Ann a thousand times and learned everything about the biggest threat: Hypothermia!
All of which was really good fun and was made in our class groups so that we could easily get to know everyone in our classes.

A less formal way of meeting other students and staff is the weekly and legendary friday gathering: a group of students purchase beer and spirits to sell it cheaply to the other students in the university's cafeteria (which is a really awesome room with a nice, open fire) and everybody proceeds to get quite marry which always ends in the pubs, the singular night club or barrack parties!

Out of lecture time, we have been able to get on a few private hikes in and around Longyearbyen (always taking a rifle - which are pretty hard to get at this time of the year because they are all gone for field trips) always beginning with some thigh-burning, reaaaaally steep climbs to get out of this valley, but rewarded by the most stunning views you can ever imagine!!! Seriously, AMAZING!

Most recently, we have come down on the side of one glacier on a huge moraine, hearing the glacial melt water right underneath our feet.

So far, the biggest challenge was to adjust to the constant daylight. Four days ago, the sun touched the horizon the very first time after the summer and is now further retreating. Only 1.5 months(ish) until we won't see the sun for quite a while!

We are now looking forward to our field trips. The first of which is for Arctic Technology/Hydrology and Climate Change for which we will stay at an old radio station in Kapp Linnhe leaving next Monday.

That's it for now, but you will hear more! Next time from Allan or Esty who are both currently on their first field trip!

Ha det bra

Luci and Riba